Memorable Photos

     Here are a few more memorable photos from this past autumn tour side trip to Haines, Alaska. As always, for me, wildlife is what I most enjoy but great scenery is a close runner-up.

The Approaching

     Sitting beside a cold mountain river photographing ducks can quickly morph into an experience that is much more exciting and memorable. The Mergansers were just upriver and sitting in a family group preening on a large rock; nice to see but not very exciting. A movement from the corner of my eye immediately demanded my full attention as this mother bear and her two cubs were wading up river in my direction. I knew they were in the area but last I saw them, they were happily fishing downstream. Now, here she was and I was beside a well-used bear trail heading into the forest; so what-to-do? She was not aggressive and her body language told me she had seen me and did not seem to care one way or the other. I decided that my best bet was to stay put and let her decide her comfort zone. I thought that rather than me stumbling around and trying to move back and change the situation that she had already decided was okay, I had best stand still. When cubs are involved, there is always a bit more to wonder about. What will their reaction to me be? In this case, they obediently followed their mother's footsteps, giving me that questioning, sideways glance to make sure I was behaving myself and all turned out great.

Fresh Salmon

          A few yards upstream, they caught a fish and sat there eating it while I continued to snap photos, while allowing my adrenalin to settle down. The bears in this area are obviously habituated and are used to having people around, but we do have to remember that they are still wild and cannot always be predictable. By standing still, watching her body language and allowing her plenty of escape space and giving her the option to choose her comfort zone, we got along well that day. I do also carry bear spray for my protection but whether or not I could have got it out and deployed in time or not, I am not sure in this case.
    

Good Eats

    These are cubs-of-this-year so they have much to learn about human and other animal inter-action. Their well-being and long term survival depends upon how Momma bear teaches them. They are obviously learning to fish and do enjoy eating them, so this is a great start.

What do You See?

     Even while fishing Mother bear is on high alert for any danger to her cubs. She will stand up to better observe anything she may be concerned about. She will be watching for other bears especially and for people who are not where she usually sees them. It is rare for people to be on the other side of this river so all critters will note the change in routine and be wary. Any bears have to be recognised so she can decide if her cubs may be at risk from a predatory male. Along with her great eyesight and good hearing, she also has that magnificent nose hard at work. Even here, in this running water with gulls squawking for fishy morsels, those ears will pick out any unusual sounds that will require investigation. Even over the overpowering stench of rotting fish, her nose will pick up amazing hints of what is happening around her.
     Each of the above photos give me a different feeling when I look at them. The first one has the attention grabbing drama of an approaching bear and all the pre-conceived fears that has been instilled in us through dramatic hunting stories and scary outdoor movies. Bears approaching are serious situations to be in, anytime and anyplace, and should not be taken lightly.
     The second photo is a great family photo, not unlike our own families. One cub is very serious about his food and the lessons that Mother is teaching while the other cub is off exploring and not paying attention. This cub is more interested in play and exploration, all of which is still valuable to it in the future. Obviously it is not interested in competing with it's sibling for the fish either.
     The third photo is all about cuteness and concentration. It is also about the struggle of the fish hoping to get away to lay its eggs and finish its life mission before getting eaten. We also see the concentration and struggle of the young bear cub hoping to hang onto the slippery fish for the calories and fat reserves it will require to survive the long winter hibernation. We know that it is learning valuable lessons on it's own with the backing and reassurance of mother.
     Photo four is about tension and drama. What is it that she senses to get her immediate attention? I could see nothing untoward from where I stood, but then, I am not a mother bear with two charges to look after. I also see the nonchalant cub exploring as if nothing is amiss. The cub has not sensed anything and has not been warned by mom yet, so, at this time, all is good.

Mountain Autumn

     I was taken by the beauty of the mountain scene but when I snapped a few photos, there was something missing. How can anyplace so beautiful not produce a great photo?
     For me, it happened when the bald eagle perched in the poplar tree. Life happened. Even that tiny speck in the tree added vitality and majesty to already spectacular scenery. For me, this eagle is telling me that this is home. It can live and probably raise a family here in this beauty. It makes me ask myself, "Could I also live in this place?" Who wouldn't want a cabin beside the river in such spectacular surroundings?
     When I look at these photos I can feel the chilly wind and water, hear the rustle of leaves and rushing current, smell the dead fish and see the wonder of it all. I remember and imagine the possibilities of life here

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Memorable Photos

     I'd like to try a few posts that recall certain photos that are most memorable to me. I snap photographs almost every time I see a new animal, bird or beautiful landscape.
     I don't snap many people pictures, not because I don't like people but because I don't want to disappoint them, interfere with them or disappoint myself with the results. People are difficult to capture because we each have a personality that is unique and I think the photograph should capture that to be real. Once in a while it does work for me but mainly by accident rather than design.

Polar Bear Marathon Churchill, Manitoba
 

     This people picture works for me. It shows some activity, adds some questions and describes the landscape. You can see that the track is icy by slight reflections. You can judge the time of year by the angle of the runners shadows and you can tell the temperature by the frost on their beard and face mask. The polar bear tells us that we are running in the north somewhere and the background landscape shows very stunted trees, rocks and windswept snowdrifts so we must be far north. There is a good story being told in this one photo. With a couple more pictures, the story could be complete without any words written.

     It is the personality of the animal or person that I think bring a photo to life and make it memorable. It is the personality that we can relate to through our own experiences and universally recognised body language. The anthropomorphization of wildlife is natural to me when I see them act so much like we do. Whether it is a cub bear or caring birds, I often recognise fear, worry, empathy, sorrow, caring and love for their own family members. This is the shot that I hope to capture. I am trying to portray the emotions of the animal in that moment that we can all relate to.

What's Happening Mom?

    



     This photo is almost self-explanatory. We can sense the cub's anxiety of what it is seeing. We can see that he is questioning and curious but unsure enough, that he seeks answers from behind his mothers security. We do not need to know the cause of their concern but we do see that it has their undivided attention until they can identify the issue. We also see that Mom is guarding her cub, placing herself between her baby and the threat. She is not standing in any kind of threatening pose but she is confident in her ability in this moment.

Safe and Sound

     I like to see and portray family comfort and security. We can all relate to a Mother lying with her kids piled on top of or cuddled in close to her warmth and security. This is a common sight when mother with cubs lie down in their day-beds for a snooze. Mom will find a vantage point that is protected from the wind and generally tough to see. In this situation, she has her back and sides protected from attack from any danger to herself or cubs. This particular spot is situated very close to a busy road so predatory male bears may feel insecure wandering so close to human activity. This female has probably learned that humans in this region are generally nothing more than an annoyance rather than a threat. The cubs are also learning this knowledge from their mother for use in future years. Seeing the cubs cuddled up to their mother also reminds me of the times when my own young children would sneak into the warmth and comfort of our bed when they were frightened or felt insecure.

Foxy Discussion

     This pair of foxes are obviously having a disagreement of some sort. We can only guess what it is about.  I guess the dark fox is the husband and the red fox is the wife. From the body language, I am guessing that he made a suggestion that she has vehemently disagreed with. I like the option we all have to decide for ourselves what she may be snappy about. Since we don't know for sure, we also have the option of calling the red fox the husband and the darker fox the wife. How does this change affect your question? The photo itself is not a good photo but I like it more for the discussion than the quality.
     
     I will post a few more photos over the coming weeks to add to this discussion. Please add your own comments or interpretations of the above photos. What emotion do they remind you of? What questions do you ask yourself  or this photographer about the image?
    


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Churchill Reflections

     As I sit in the Winnipeg airport waiting for the last leg of my journey home, I reflect upon another guiding season adventure. To get this far I rode the red-eye Via passenger rails 16 hours from Churchill to Thompson, Manitoba across frozen and snow covered muskeg and boreal forest. I then drove a company vehicle eight hours, 750 kilometers to Winnipeg arriving late last evening.

     I came to Churchill to work as a guide with Lazy Bear Lodge in June 2015. My goal was to spend time with Beluga whales, learn some of the history and culture of the region, study the landscape and most importantly spend time with polar bears. All of these goals have been accomplished to a certain degree. One can spend a lifetime in a place with its critters and still be amazed by what occurs at times. I feel for our guests who may have only a few hours to spend trying to absorb as much of this region as they can. They cannot have enough time but if they are lucky, as some were, they experienced magnificence.

   I first of all have to thank the owners of Lazy Bear Lodge, Wally and Dawn Daudrich, for allowing me the opportunity to enjoy this unique place in Canada. There is no other place like it.

     I next have to thank some of my co-workers who worked very hard to make our guests experiences top-notch and memorable. My two geezer amigos who worked diligently and often times beyond what we should have to complete some major projects and maintenance issues over the course of the season. Marcel Wellman, a wannabe Newfie from eastern Quebec kept us on track and on task with good humour, stories and ditties. Norm Jackson, the elder, had many great ideas pulled from the cobwebs of his life-experience memory bank. Only Mother Nature will tell us in the spring if our docking system will hold up after a winter of ice and storm battering.

     My senior guides, Jud Jones, Gerald Azure and Aaron Nagler proved to be great advisors and mentors with good humour and great guiding skills. Between them, they were able to teach an old dog some new tricks that helped to make our guiding season adventurous and fun for myself and our guests. I also enjoyed meeting an Inuit elder, Thomas Kutluk, who did his culture talks to our guests over the season. We all enjoy learning about new cultures when everyone is open-minded.

     We could not be successful in the field with our guests without the support of our lodge staff, from the front desk reception area to the cleaning, waiting and cooking staff. I am grateful to all of them, even though I may not have spent much more time than a fleeting “good morning” or “where’s our lunches?” Most of the staff came from many different destinations such as Ireland, Australia and across Canada. All have different life experiences and backgrounds as well as motivation to be here. Our common bond was the desire to experience the place and see the wildlife.

Churchill Polar Bear Marathon 2015 Sunrise

     One of the most amazing things I experienced was two of our waiting staff, an Englishman, Adam Mills, and a francophone lady, Tania Massicotte, from Whistler, both in their thirties, ran the full 4^th annual, Churchill Polar Bear marathon. They had never run a marathon before, not even half marathons. It was minus 15 degrees Celsius with another 10 degrees of wind-chill and the road was solid ice. They could have worn skates rather than the crampons they strapped to their runners. They ran with and past polar bears. 

Real and Not so Real Polar Bears along the 42 Km.Route

 

 They were fourth and fifth in a field of 24 crazy, frost-bitten runners. I think this was an amazing accomplishment. I was proud to have taken photos and been part of the cheering section in their support van.

Tania Massicotte and Adam Mills, Proud Marathon Finishers

     These work-mates will be missed but I will watch and monitor their further adventures on Facebook. Others will be more personal contacts and hope to work with again one day.

     I always have to thank our guests who travel so far to visit this unique land. Their openness and sense of wonderment at experiencing the land and the wildlife that live here is refreshing and positive. With their help and understanding, awareness and support for the land is spread far and wide.

     I enjoyed seeing the countryside and its varied moods which often change very quickly. Mirrored water changed to standing whitecaps within minutes, brought on by sudden winds. Ice on the bay disappeared overnight by wind direction change and just as rapidly, the bay filled with ice, once again overnight by a wind direction change. How the power of the wind can change the landscape so quickly is amazing.

Anglican Church in Churchill, Manitoba

     I saw the sun emerge from behind dark storm clouds in time to produce spectacular sunsets. The sunset has moved about 90 degrees from where it set in June to where it is now setting at the end of November. Its sky arc has also changed dramatically since June. The colour and clarity of the sky and the light has been fabulous during this autumn season. I have never seen such dramatic skies or landscape lighting as I have here in the Churchill area. I watched northern lights flash on and off, then back on over a few minutes. They are amazing spectacles of colourful drama flashing across brilliantly star-studded night skies.

     I think of the dedication of the Churchill Bear Patrollers who monitor bear activity in the area around the town. They will chase the bears out of town if they will go and trap or tranquilize I they don't leave peaceably. This dedicated group of conservation officers have saved the lives of hundreds of bears over the past 30 years. Delinquent bears are held at the holding facility for up to a month before being flown out of town.

Delinquent Bear Being Incarcerated

      The landscape itself is as variable as the dramatic skies that cover it. The ruggedly shallow, bay coast is lined by the Pre-Cambrian shield rocky ridge, ground to deceptive smoothness by ancient glaciers. The landscape immediately stretches out into thousands of square kilometers of sub-arctic tundra, taiga, muskeg and boreal forest wilderness that has been utilized by Inuit and Cree for thousands of years before the Europeans arrived about 400 years ago. Colourful but tiny little orchids to emblazoned fireweed combine with tough clumps of hundred year old white-spruce and dwarf birch huddle together for protection from bitterly cold and harsh north-east winds paint the land with brilliant swatches like an abstract artist run amok.

Bee Working hard to Gather Nectar While Pollinating Flowers

       Hundreds of species of birds live or migrate along the western shore of Hudson Bay. They live and rear their families in tiny ponds, on rocky shorelines or out on the open tundra. I enjoyed watching the progress from eggs to tiny, cute-ugly fur-balls of helpless fluff, to the gangly, demanding fledglings growing into their gorgeous adult feathers ready to fly away on the world’s longest migrations. One morning, as if someone turned on a switch, every Arctic Tern had left including the youngsters. Gulls, geese, terns and ducks of many species all raised youngsters and got them off before the ponds froze over.

Arctic Tern Feeding Young

     In the Churchill River estuary, we all marvelled at the huge population of Beluga whales feeding and rearing their families. Everywhere we looked, we could see groups of white whales gliding up to breathe and then diving back down to feed. Graceful elegance could be enticed into playful charmers by the flick of a paddle or wake of a boat.

Polar Bear Mother Watches Carefully as Her Cub Swims Nearby

     The main object of all visitors to Churchill is to catch a glimpse of a polar bear. They do not disappoint. The polar bear is the supreme commander of its land. Just the possibility of their presence makes all of us aware of our own short comings. Watch a bear slip into the chilly water with no hesitation, no toe dip to test the water and no worry about the distance to paddle. Watch as the bear strolls along the beach following an invisible-to-us scent on his powerful nose. He can travel miles in a hurry with his deceptive ground covering gait. We witnessed the patience that the bear has. We watched one bear lay on the ice from daylight to dark; it never moved more than 50 meters all day. It was conserving valuable and dwindling fat reserves while waiting for the ice to form on the bay. It does not take long for antsy guests to want to move along in search for more active ursine.

Polar Bear Mom With Cubs Hiding in Rocky Seclusion

     I saw the desperate and sad side of polar bear life as a large hungry male killed a cub and ate it. The sad mother, helpless to save her cub, watched the hungry male consume her baby. Jud watched a polar bear hunt and capture geese in one of the small ponds. The bear snorkeled and dove, then, one by one, pulled three geese under and carried them to land to feed on. This action may help the polar bear survive as ice seasons become shorter.

     The Churchill region is a marvellous place, harsh and unforgiving at times, but refreshing and rejuvenating for the tough and aware. Long, hot summer days are alive with hordes of humming mosquitoes, feeding gulls and terns pursued by Parasitic Jaegers to bees busily pollinating short blooming flowers as whales feed and rear youngsters in the river. Cooler autumn days paint the land with colourfully lichens, leaves and spectacular sunsets. Wind sets thousands of tiny Mountain Aven skeletons to shaking as if the land is shivering. Storms blow in, the wind changes direction, clouds ramble as if a new destination has suddenly come to mind. Surf pounds the rocky beach and sea foam floats effortlessly up, filling rocky crevasses like snowdrifts. Smell the sea scents, the salt in the air and the rain.

Sea Foam Covers the Beach

Watch snowflakes glom onto everything as if hanging on, not wanting to leave, but the wind is insistent. As the season progresses into winter, snow and chill wind freezes exposed flesh quickly and snow drifts build up protecting everything they cover until warm spring sun releases winters powerful grip.

     Through the seasons the wildlife adapts and waits and works for survival. Only the strong and patient will survive. It is not a land for the unaware or careless.

     I do not know yet if I will be back. I will gauge the draw and temptations over the coming comfortable winter at home.

 

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Memorable Tour

     There are many events that make wildlife touring fun, exciting and memorable. As a tour leader I am often found searching for inspiration when little wildlife is to be found, after all, it is the wildlife that our guests have paid to see. As a guide, it is my job to entertain our guests during times that wildlife is laying low for whatever reason. My knowledge of our region and environment helps for some time but at other times I have a riddle or two that entertains us while allowing us to monitor the area for any wildlife.

Crawler off Ithica Point

     My favorite riddle goes as such: "Why, when geese fly in a V-formation, is one side of the V often longer than the other? This may be a question of mathematics, science and practicality that has a very scientific explanation."
     At other times I ask our guests to introduce themselves and tell us where they come from. On day- long trips such as Lazy Bear Lodge's Tundra tours, up to 25 guests may be riding around on the Arctic Crawler all day. This introduction helps to know and find common interests to help break the ice and promote conversation between strangers.

Frozen Bear Tracks

     "The geese may be flying south or north, it doesn't seem to matter."
     At other times, I pass out advice. Many guests from warm climates may require advice that any of us raised in the cold of winter know from early in life. "For those of you from Hawaii, Australia or Florida, who may not know, do not stick your tongue onto any frozen metal. Your tongue will stick solidly to the metal until you bravely tear it off leaving it stretched out of shape and a large patch of tongue-skin left on the metal. The only way to get it unstuck is to pour warm saline water onto the metal until it releases your tongue. We do not carry saline water. The second best option is for me to pee on your tongue which will hopefully have enough volume and be warm enough to warm the metal.

Don't Touch That Post

     "The geese are probably honking as they are flying."
     Another thing to help break the ice and build teamwork and camaraderie is to make up some poetry or limericks about what they are seeing. I have some amazing examples written by some of my guests:

I am a polar bear

I like ice and snow

I never, ever shiver

I never feel cold

 

I swim in the water

I hunt on the ice

I think fat seals

Are especially nice

 

You might see me eating

A chunk of caribou

If you get too close

I might come after you

© Aum Nicol Gr. 3 teacher St. Clements School, Grande Prairie, Alberta

 

 

     "The geese may be white, grey and black or any other colour combination."

 

 

There once was a polar bear named Aurora

Who hoped that nobody saw her

She hid in her den

Until winters end

And when she came out

There was two more of her

Jennie Fawcett

 

The polar bear is white

The polar bear is bright

He will give you an almighty fright

If you meet him in the night

Jennie Fawcett

There was a young chap called Bob

Who worked at Lazy Bear Lodge

He took us out everyday

To see bears play

And dam was he good at his job

Janet Edginton

 

We came to a town called Churchill

It was very cold with a windchill

We’re named Arctic Hares

We came to see bears

And if we don’t spot them

Then Bob will

 

Hidden Polar Bears

 

 

     I try to make a game out of spotting wildlife. I have a knack for spotting wildlife and have helped many people enjoy their tours by finally spotting the critter.  Some times they can be very challenging to see, especially when the bear and Ptarmigan are white as is the snow. I make sure that everyone can see the critter or I try to get close enough so they do. It is a great help when other guests chime in to help too. This is a great game and is very rewarding once someone finally sees the critter. 

Hidden Polar Bear Family Revealed

 

     "Young geese may be taught this formation by their parents."

 

     Wildlife, especially large carnivores, is what people from around the world pay to see. These people also enjoy discussion and education about the environment, the history and some of the culture of the region. Guests are looking for great photographs, memories and hope to be entertained as well. As I drop them off at the airport, I am often as sad to see them go as they are. I am well satisfied when my departing guests shake my hand or give me a hug to say thanks for the best trip ever.

 

 

     "There are more geese in the long line!"

 

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Feeding Your Family by Hunting Discussion

     I received a package from North Pole, Alaska today. I opened it up to find two precious pints of home-grown honey with a thank you note enclosed. This package was not from Santa, rather, a fellow named Eric. Here is how it came to me.

     We cross the Yukon River on the ferry at Dawson City early in the morning headed toward Tok, Alaska via The Top of the World Highway in the Yukon and the Taylor Highway once in Alaska. It is mid-September and this highway will soon close due to winter arriving in the high country. Autumn colours are brilliant and there is little traffic on this high mountain road. Once in Alaska, we decide to drive slowly toward Eagle, AK. To see what the country looks like. We are met by several vehicles, obviously hunters and we wonder what they are hunting for. I stop behind a fellow who has just loaded a bull caribou onto his trailer and we chat. “It is caribou hunting season,” he explains. This hunter is from around Anchorage and is here to fill his tag with one of the “Forty Mile” herd of barren ground caribou. He is excited to have made his harvest to provide meat for his family. www.hunt.alaska.gov

Forty Mile Caribou Bull

     I find out later that the Forty Mile caribou herd has about 50,000 members and migrates across this section of the Taylor Highway annually at this time of year. Alaska game managers are allowing 340 bull caribou to be harvested in this region. My guests are not too happy about this hunt as we are all on a photo safari and hoping to get some great shots of caribou. This is the emotional conflict between hunters and environmentalists we are all part of in this modern day.

       Do we agree with hunting for subsistence or trophies or not?

      It really doesn’t matter what we think, this hunt will go on and we will have to work with or around it. We will have to be very careful that we do not cause any conflicts and that we do not get mistaken for a caribou. As we continue our drive I pause often to talk to hunters walking the road or sitting watchfully for game. We try to be respectful and understanding of their hunt.

Distant Caribou Herd

    I spot a herd of about 30 caribou making their way up an open hillside and think we may be able to intercept them from the other side. As we drive up the road we see that a hunter has also spotted this herd and is preparing his stalk on our herd. We find the right place to begin our stalk and with cameras loaded we begin our stalk that I estimate to be about half a mile up hill. We struggle up the hill and start hearing rifle shots when only half way to our expected interception point. We count at least ten shots before all is silent and we are near the ridge line. I spot a hunter, rifle slung on his shoulder so we continue our advance. He has a caribou down and is examining it as we approach. “How many did you get,” I ask with a smile on my face.

     “Only one,” he smiles back sheepishly. “Pretty bad shooting on my part. I was running up this ridge and breathing pretty hard so had a hard time getting this bull. I sure am happy now though, I have meat for my family.” We chat for a while and explain what we are doing. “I am real sorry that I interrupted your chance at getting photos of this bull,” he apologized. “I sure hope my buddies come up and give me a hand to get this caribou down to the road,” he smiles wistfully. “I have my work cut out for me now but it is worth it.”

     We leave the hunter to his work and make our way along the ridge line to where I finally spot what I think is the remains of the herd we were stalking. They are a good mile ahead of us across a valley and making their way up another ridge. We sit down to enjoy the spectacular scenery and watch how effortlessly the caribou make their way through the timber and up the hill. It is a good spot to sit and marvel at the size of this country and how small we are.

Chicken Mascot

     As we continue our drive south toward the small settlement of Chicken we discuss the pros and cons of hunting. My guests are wealthy men from big city China and have never hunted or gathered for their families. They have never had the opportunity or need. Neither had their ancestors. These men have ideals of where they get their meat; from the butcher down the street. They are also noticing the equipment that the hunters are using. 4x4 trucks worth more than $50,000.00 towing enclosed trailers containing ATV’s as well as the guns and miscellaneous gear worth probably in excess of $100,000.00 totally. “If you have that kind of money, you probably don’t have to hunt for your food,” my skeptical guests note. They do have a point there.

     What they don’t understand is the age old quest and tradition of man providing for his family through his hunting skill and matching wits with the game. My guests suggest that, “it does not seem fair to hunt using all this expensive equipment and high powered rifles. They see that the challenges might be equalized if they used a bow and arrows where they would have to get very close to their quarry.”  I have to agree with them on this and try to explain how bow hunting might work with caribou.

     Of course, the gun ownership debate comes up. They do not understand the right or desire to bear arms in the USA or Canada. In China, they are not allowed weapons of any kind. One of my friends find a couple of cartridge cases and asked me if it would be okay to take them. I said to go ahead. One of his friends said, “No, you can’t take it home. They will confiscate it from you.” He goes on to explain, “The authorities may think that he is trying to build a weapon and the empty cartridge case will make it easier for him to do so.”

     We see several caribou and moose being hauled out in the backs of pickup trucks and trailers, antlers proudly mounted prominently on the tops of their loads. Most of the kills we see are well taken care of. We do see some hides and gut piles left beside campsites and in ditches, abandoned to the wild scavengers.

      “Is there no requirement to use these skins?” the photographers query. I explain that the only requirement is that the hunters salvage all edible meat but they do not have to keep the skin. This seems to them to be wasteful, especially to one who had just purchased about $700.00 worth of tanned fox skins to take home for decoration. This very intelligent man does not see the hunting/trapping connection to his purchase of wild fox skins that have been trapped in this wilderness and sold to him through a couple of middlemen. The trapper also used his skills to harvest these fox skins to help provide for his family. He wonders if foxes are raised on a farm as if that would make the fox’s life-sacrifice any different or humane. I do allow that the farmed fox death may be more humane than the wild trapped one but the death of the fox is inevitable in either case.

Ptarmigan Changing Colour

     The next day we return to the Chicken region to try for caribou photos. (Chicken got its name because nobody could spell Ptarmigan, the bird found most commonly in this region). www.chickenalaska.com We find a spot that caribou seemed to wander through and where we had a great spot to sit still and watch from. Hunters drive past continuously and some even stop to visit us. Two of my guests have wandered down the road while another sits patiently for a stag to appear in front of him. I am talking to a pair of hunters about their success. “My wife got her first caribou yesterday,” the husband proudly boasted. “She made a great shot,” he beamed as she sat there modestly trying to hide her pleasure. “We are now trying to get a moose. That would give us all the meat we will need for the year.” He explained. This couple did not have expensive equipment, rather, rode double on an older quad towing a homemade trailer.

Caribou Stampede

      As we chat I am watching the ridge across from us in time to see the most memorable sight of the trip. Down the ridge, through the scattered black spruce timber tumbled a large herd of caribou. Close to a hundred animals poured down the hill, across the small river and up onto our side and out of sight. I rush down to gather my lone guest in hopes of intercepting the herd before they all disappear. He has not seen them yet but thankfully he gathered himself and gear into the car without argument. He is as amazed as I am to this spectacle.  Another car has intercepted the herd as we arrived at the road crossing and the caribou are milling about, somewhat confused. Several more have paused in the timber above us and they soon begin to backtrack. We retreat to our parking place to watch. We get settled just as a hunter comes around the corner and spots the herd about 300 yards up the hill. He stops and quickly gets out with his rifle. I watch as he takes aim over the roof of his older Ford pickup. At his shot, I see a bull go down. The hunter is watchful and sees the caribou struggle back to his feet. He shoots a second time and the solid hit can be heard from our vantage point. This time the bull stays down. I quietly monitor the bull and the hunter as he makes his way up through the timber trying to find where his animal went down. They are very close together and the bull hears the hunter and struggles back to his feet. The hunter hears him and soon the final shot echoes over the valley. I watch as he carefully examines his animal. After about half an hour I watch as he struggles down the hill with the hind quarters slung over his shoulder. That is quite a load he has and I have to admire his strength. I meet him as he splashes across the river with his load. He is very happy and says, “Now I don’t have to tell my wife I am coming home empty handed. We have meat. She’ll be happy.” He proudly exclaims. “My name is Eric and I live at North Pole and work part-time and part-time in the military. We have six kids and my daughter was supposed to be here today but her friend is moving south so she wanted to spend time together. We can sure use this caribou,” he states. I shake his hand and tell him my name and mission.

     “Can you use a hand to get the front half out of the bush?” I ask him. He looks at me like I am crazy but shrugs and happily accepts my offer of help. I can hardly keep up to him as we climb the steep hill through the shin-tangle to his kill. The caribou has a great rack and will make for a nice trophy to remind him of this hunt.

     He has used a reciprocating saw to help with the butchering. “It works great he says and is not too heavy to pack.” He explains that he learned about it while helping out with road-kill collection which he also volunteers at. “It is very easy to use to quarter an animal like a moose to make it easy to load or to butcher. We use it all the time,” he tells me.
     Eric shoulders his rifle and I take the saw as we each grab hold of an antler. Good thing it is downhill but we struggle with the brush and hidden gullies for half an hour before we have the carcass at the river’s edge. Eric goes to get his old quad and we soon have the quad, caribou and gear tied down in his pickup. We shake hands and I offer him a business card as he thanks me profusely for the help. “I’ll send you some of my home raised honey for your help. I surely do appreciate it. You saved me a lot of work and time. I can send honey to Canada,” he tells me.

Barren Ground Caribou Bull with his Herd

     Lately, I have been waffling, riding the fence on the hunting debate. I don’t hunt any more but was raised on wild meat and did hunt for a few years to help feed my own family. I know the thrill and challenges of the hunt and enjoyed it for years. Hunting was a big part of our family culture. Meat hunting slowly evolved into trophy hunting through the natural competition that men get into by comparing antler sizes of their kills. Even the large antlered animals were used as meat but we refused to hunt once the rut was on for the deer and moose we desired. Even though the large antlered trophy game is easier to get when they lose their survival minds to a sweetheart, their meat is tainted and inedible while rutting. I think these experiences with the hunters we met on out Yukon and Alaska tour have reminded me and rekindled my understanding of hunting.

     Trophy hunting for carnivores such as bears and the big cats is something I still do not agree with. I do not see the need to kill a large bear, for instance, just to prove how tough you are. This testosterone fuelled desire to demonstrate to the world that you have total dominance over the world’s great predators is one of the personality traits I once had that I am not very proud of. I know of many other men who also enjoyed these hunts who have now come to understand, after time, the fragility of life and Mother Nature’s requirement for the big predators and in their role as habitat managers. Just because we have moved in and crowded out the wildlife does not give us the right to rid the world of the natural predators. We cannot do as good a job as they can.

Cow Moose with Calf

     Some people still need or like to hunt to help feed their families and I hope that they will be able to continue to enjoy the hunt and pass their skills on to their next generation.

 

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Yukon Tour, Dempster Highway Adventures

     Since I heard of the Dempster Highway many years ago, I wanted to drive it. I have now completed the 1475 kilometer round trip from Dawson City, Yukon www.dawsoncityinfo.com to Inuvik, North West Territory www.inuvik.ca and back to Dawson. My first impression is “overload”. Overloaded on scenery, overloaded on vastness, distances to see and drive, overloaded on mud, snow, dust and potholes in areas, and unbelievably void of animals. There has to be wildlife, but we did not see anything on the two day drive north from Dawson City, Yukon. On our way back we did spot a Musk Ox and one berry-feeding black bear.

Lone Bull Musk Ox

     It is hunting season in this region so most of the wildlife has probably dispersed to safe hiding places, secure from meat and trophy hunters.

     The Dempster is named for Sgt. W.J.D. Dempster who was sent to find the famous  Northwest Mounted Police (NWMP) lost patrol during the winter of 1910-11. Four members of the NWMP became lost and disoriented during their regular patrol about 30 or 40 miles from Aklavik during a bitterly cold winter and all perished. Sgt. Dempster used basically the same route as the highway as he patrolled this vast region of land between Dawson City and the Mackenzie Delta region. This is also the region of one of Canada's most interesting manhunts in 1930 for the Mad Trapper of Rat River.
     The highway construction began in the late 1950s and finished during the 1970s to provide access for oil exploration in this region of the North Country. The unbelievable scenery has since attracted tourists from around the world and it is not difficult to see why.

Dempster Highway

      My guests and I marvel at the silence of the land. There is not much traffic so we often had several miles of country to ourselves to relish and absorb the silence. With the peaceful sense of silence is the odours of purity and frozen cranberries and earthy moss. Taste the berries, tart and juicy cranberries and lignon berries before the bears and birds gather them.

Moss, Lichen and Lignon Berries

Bend down to touch and feel and fondle the earth covering mosses, lichens, bearberries and other widely varied ground cover, growing low to the ground for protection from harsh climate amongst flora neighbours and protective swales. Gnarly and wiry dwarf birch and willow grow just tall enough to gather sunlight but low enough to protect each other from winter’s ravages of wind and blowing ice. These shrubs also grow just tall enough to hide a full grown grizzly bear from view so constant vigilance is required. Do not fear, we make enough noise breaking trail that any bear would have to be deaf and senile not to know we are in the area. www.wildlifeviewing.gov.yk.ca

     Feel the wind, chilly already in early autumn. You need a good windbreaker with fleece and wool under layers as well as a hat and gloves. Take a layer off as the sun appears from behind the clouds, warming the optimistic land and traveller. Lie back on the soft carpet and gaze up at the clouds and the peaks as the sun warms and rejuvenates your body.

     I wonder at the variety of land as we drive north through the Yukon Territory. www.yukoninfo.com    Boreal forest merges into the rugged Tombstone Mountains with broad valleys and rugged peaks. Vast distances of mixed coniferous forest blends with aspen/birch mixed with tamarack and black spruce. Then, there are the miles of strictly lowland meadows and taiga rolling onto forested shoulders of rough mountains, brilliantly coloured reds and yellows, orange, green and purple. I drive through several miles of pure black spruce forest, something I have never seen before. It is beautiful in its own distinctness. There are the miles of seemingly recent forest fire scars that turn out that is almost as old as I am.

Recovering Burn

Land recovers slowly, in human terms anyway, from life generating fire. There are miles with no tree in sight and we begin to think we have finally travelled beyond the treeline only to discover that we have been going uphill for many miles before dropping down into the next drainage system and back into forested valley bottoms with accompanying creeks and rivers.

     We pause at the Arctic Circle signpost for photo ops and scenery pictures. Later we receive a certificate at Inuvik visitor center as “Arctic Circle Chapter Order of Adventurers.”

     We cross the Peel River, a river threatened by mining interests and held off by native and environmental groups struggling to “Protect the Peel.” www.protectpeel.ca Ft. McPherson sits near the banks of this river after crossing northbound by ferry. 70 kilometers north we cross the Mackenzie River at Tsiigehtchic, formerly known as Arctic Red River. This is one of Canada’s longest rivers draining one fifth of the country. The river here is more than one half mile wide and runs deep, swiftly and grey with silt from recent rains.

     This highway is a gravel surfaced road. In places it is hard packed, almost like pavement. In some sections it is cratered with undercarriage punishing potholes, some filled by camouflaged, windshield- splattering muddy water. Dust trails billow behind for a few miles before slowing us down by soupy mud that turns our white rental vehicle into an indecipherable colour. At higher elevations of the mountain passes, we encounter fresh snow, cleared now from the road but the ditches and hillsides are still well blanketed.

Fresh Snow Fall

Soft shoulders, construction and, maintenance zones large trucks and campers slow our progress but for the most part we travel at about 70 to 80 kilometers per hour. Road and ferry reports go to www.dot.gov.nt.ca A couple days ago, the two ferries were sidelined while new approaches were constructed after high water washed the old ones away.

     All around us is the wild beauty of this vast, empty land. Autumn colours dazzle our eyes in brilliant sunlight then are shrouded by valleys filled with fog. Mountains capped by fresh snow blind us before becoming muted by clouds of grey and white. Distant veils of rain, cooled to snow up top promise rainbows if timed just right by sun angles. We don’t need more colour to tease our senses but it is welcome enough to pause for photos. We all marvel at the clear air, especially after the rain and the sun bursts from its cloudy covering.

     Inuvik, itself, is at the end of the road, for now. Road construction will restart during the winter season on a 137 kilometer all-season gravel road that will connect Tuktoyaktuk to the rest of Canada. Currently there is only an ice road crossing this landscape during the winter season. This new road is expected to be completed sometime in 2018.

     Inuvik sits on the shoreline of the massive MacKenzie River delta, a vast region of cultural, wildlife and habitat diversity. This is a full service town with all amenities to provide for a comfortable northern lifestyle. We stayed at the reasonably priced and comfortable Arctic Chalet www.arcticchalet.com who also offered several tours including dogsledding and flightseeing cultural tours to Tuktoyaktuk and Herchel Island. The visitor center provided valuable advice for things to do in the area.

     The Dempster highway is a challenge due to the varied terrain and road conditions that can occur on any remote gravel road. We encountered dust, mud, pot holes, road construction and maintenance, long hills and curves as well as long distances between services. You need a reliable vehicle with good tires and full fuel tank. It is important to drive to the road conditions and slow down when meeting other vehicles. Give large transport trucks room and if they catch up to you, let them pass. If you see something you would like to stop to examine or photograph, pull well off the shoulder on a stretch of road where you can be seen. I fuelled up at Eagle Plains,  www.eagleplainsmotel.com the halfway point of the highway. We also stayed for the night at this hotel, lucky to have reservations for. We did not have reservations for the ride back so drove the full distance from Inuvik to Dawson City in about 12 hours. I would like to thank Driving Force Vehicle Rentals www.drivingforce.com for supplying the right vehicle and equipping our Ford Expedition with the right tires for this road.

     This is a vast land and I have to admire the people who have lived with it for centuries. The native peoples hunted, fished, travelled and thrived all seasons here. They had to contend with weather, terrain, wildlife and of course mosquitoes and horseflies in summer. I also have to admire the first prospectors, trappers, explorers, police and preachers that ventured here. They encountered many challenges that caused severe injury and even death while trying to wrest the natural resources from the land. Today, our modern adventurers, the truck drivers, who deliver vital goods through all weathers, winter and summer, contend with difficult roads and weather conditions relying upon machinery and skill to get them safely to their destination.

Sunshine on Top of the World

     I am sure that all who have ever lived or traversed the landscape have often paused to admire its natural beauty.  In September, when we are travelling here, we are awed by the autumn colours. If we were to see a painting done up with all the colours the artist could splash on his canvas, we would wonder if it could be real or is there some abstract, artistic license taken here. We now know that no exaggeration is require beyond Mother Nature’s natural palette.

Playful Black Bear

 

 

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